Old Saltburn is the original settlement, located in the Saltburn Gill. Old Saltburn around Cat Nab, was an eighteenth century fishing village. It became a centre for smugglers. In 1856, there was a hamlet around the Ship Inn, comprising a row of houses where farmers and fishermen lived. The authors Laurence Sterne and John Hall Stevenson raced chariots on the sands at Saltburn, but otherwise it was but a small fishing hamlet.

Old Saltburn was the centre of a smuggling trade in the late eighteen century. The houses were closely packed and contraband was passed between houses and there were secret rooms to evade the Excise men. Everyone seemed to be involved, from locals, to farmers and landowners. Like Robin Hood, the general view was that smugglers were harmless local folk, avoiding paying unfair tax. Old Saltburn was a small fishing hamlet which was remote and close to hidden beaches hidden by high cliffs, where smuggled goods could be landed.

Smuggling itself was an accepted way of life for English coastal villages in the late 18th and early 19th Century and it was an activity performed by all sorts of people across the social scale from farmhands to clergymen to local gentry. Entire villages would turn out to help hide the contraband goods before the arrival of the preventive officers. Folklore and local legend depicts the smugglers as harmless men, who were merely trying to avoid paying an unlawful tax

The late eighteenth century was a time of expensive wars against America and France and heavy and unpopular taxes were imposed on imported goods such as gin, tea, brandy and textiles to raise funds.

Tales of how the local community out-witted the customs officers soon became part of local folklore. One tale has an old woman hiding a keg of spirits underneath her skirts whilst customs officers performed a spot raid of her house. Another tale tells of a mother who found herself victim of a surprise search wrapping a jar of spirit in her baby's clothes, and walking past the guards with it cradled in her arms.

Saltburn's most famous smuggler was John Andrew. Born in Scotland, John Andrew moved to Saltburn and became landlord of the village's Ship Inn in 1780. Andrew's Scottish family were wealthy and well connected and in Saltburn he was a respected member of the community. He entered into a partnership with a local brewer and co-ordinated the area's smuggling trade from the Ship Inn and the White House. His grand daughter christened him 'King of the Smugglers' and he came close to being arrested on a number of occasions. He managed to combine being one of the areas most prolific criminals with a position in the branch of the local militia which was occasionally called upon to help the customs officers in their pursuit of the smugglers. Legend has it that John Andrews had a secret cellar underneath one of his stables where he deliberately kept a vicious mare who could be counted upon to kick and bite any strangers.

Battles between the customs men and the smugglers were frequent, fierce and violent and severe injuries were often sustained during these altercations. Legend and folklore portray the smugglers as lovable rogues. In reality these were violent men prepared to assault the excise men.

A book about John Andrew called 'Watch the Wall my Darling' has been written by Richard Swale.

When the Napoleonic Wars came to an end, the Saltburn smugglers came under increasing pressure from customs officers. Forced to unload his latest cargo further a field, John Andrews found himself at Blackhall, north of Hartlepool, when he was discovered by customs officers. Legend has it that he galloped across the Tees, whose level was apparently very low, to Coatham. He then asked the Coatham coastguard for the time in order to give him an alibi. The judge at his trial reasoned that he could not have travelled across the River Tees in the time that had elapsed, and so could not have been at Blackhall.

In Saltburn, Andrews was a respected member of the community. In 1817 he was elected Master of the newly formed Cleveland Hounds, demonstrating his high standing in the area. Andrews also managed to combine being one of the area’s most prolific criminals with a prominent position in the Corps of Cleveland Pioneer Industry. Ironically, this branch of the local militia was occasionally called in to assist preventive officers in their battle against smugglers! After several near misses, Andrew was finally arrested in Hornsea in 1827 and jailed for two years in York Castle. He died in 1835 at the age of seventy four.

Smuggling sleeping man

The smugglers of Saltburn John Andrews relaxing in his chair.

" If you wake at midnight, and hear a horse's feet, Don't go drawing back the blind, or looking in the street, Them that ask no questions isn't told a lie. Watch the wall my darling while the Gentlemen go by. Five-and-twenty ponies, Trotting through the dark - Brandy for the Parson, 'Baccy for the Clerk; Laces for a lady; letters for a spy, And watch the wall, my darling, while the Gentlemen go by! Running round the wood lump if you chance to find Little barrels, roped and tarred, all full of brandy-wine, Don't you shout to come and look, nor use 'em for your play. Put the brish wood back again - and they'll be gone next day ! If you see the stable-door setting open wide; If you see a tired horse lying down inside; If your mother mends a coat cut about and tore; If the lining's wet and warm - don't you ask no more ! If you meet King George's men, dressed in blue and red, You be careful what you say, and mindful what is said. If they call you " pretty maid," and chuck you 'neath the chin, Don't you tell where no one is, nor yet where no one's been ! Knocks and footsteps round the house - whistles after dark - You've no call for running out till the house-dogs bark. Trusty's here, and Pincher's here, and see how dumb they lie They don't fret to follow when the Gentlemen go by ! 'If You do as you've been told, 'likely there's a chance, You'll be give a dainty doll, all the way from France, With a cap of Valenciennes, and a velvet hood - A present from the Gentlemen, along 'o being good ! Five and twenty ponies, Trotting through the dark - Brandy for the Parson, 'Baccy for the Clerk. Them that asks no questions isn't told a lie - Watch the wall my darling while the Gentlemen go by !" (The Smuggler’s Song, Rudyard Kipling, 1906)

In 1856, the hamlet consisted of the Ship Inn and a row of houses, occupied by farmers and fishermen. In the mid-18th century, authors Laurence Sterne and John Hall-Stevenson enjoyed racing chariots on the sands at Saltburn.

Saltburn by the Sea

The development of Middlesbrough and Saltburn was driven by the discovery of iron stone in the Cleveland Hills and the building of two railways to transport the minerals.

The Pease family of Darlington had developed Middlesbrough as an industrial centre. In 1858, while walking along the coast path towards Old Saltburn to visit his brother Joseph in Marske, Henry Pease saw a prophetic vision of a town arising on the cliff and the quiet, unfrequented and sheltered glen turned into a lovely garden. The Pease family owned Middlesbrough Estate and had control of the Stockton & Darlington Railway. The family agreed to develop Henry's vision by forming the Saltburn Improvement Company (the “SIC”).

After discovery of iron stone, the Stockton & Darlington Railway and the West Hartlepool Harbour and Railway Company had developed routes into East Cleveland. In 1861, the Stockton and Darlington Railway reached Saltburn as an extension of the Middlesbrough to Redcar Railway of 1846. It was planned to continue the line to Brotton, Skinningrove and Loftus but the West Hartlepool Harbour & Railway Company had already developed tracks in the area, so there was little point.

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Cleveland Railways in 1863

Land was purchased from the Earl of Zetland, and the company commissioned a surveyor George Dickinson to lay out what became an interpretation of a gridiron street layout. The railway which ran through the site. With as many houses as possible having sea views, the layout was added to by the “Jewel streets” along the seafront—Coral, Garnet, Ruby, Emerald, Pearl, Diamond and Amber Streets, said to be a legacy of Henry's vision.

After securing the best positions for development by the SIC, money was raised for construction by selling plots to private developers and investors. Most buildings are constructed using 'Pease' brick, transported from Darlington by the Stockton & Darlington Railway, with the name Pease set into the brick. The jewel in Henry Pease's crown is said to have been The Zetland Hotel with a private platform, one of the world's earliest railway hotels.

The SIC stipulated on the land in the deed of covenant, that any trees planted along Britannia Terrace (now Marine Parade) were not to exceed 1' 6" above the footpath to preserve sea views for Britannia Terrace residents and visitors.

By 1923, the parish of Marske included Saltburn, and comprised an area of about 4,272 acres, of which 429 acres were foreshore, and of the remainder more than a third was arable land, more than half pasture and 25 acres of woods. Mining was being undertaken in the south of the parish, and the working of the iron-stone had brought a largely increased population since 1851

From the top of the high cliffs an inclined tramway constructed in 1884 led to the sands close to the pier towards the north-east of the town.

'The Pleasure Grounds' extended along the west of the 'Glen,' a bridge over which connected the modern town with the hamlet of Old Saltburn.

Further to the west near Rifts Wood the railway from Whitby crossed the same ravine by a lofty bridge, and and curves round the west of the town to Saltburn terminus. South-west of the station in Upleatham Street was Emmanuel Church, opened in 1869. At the south end of the road was the school.

The Primitive Methodists and the Wesleyans both had chapels here in 1872, and the Congregationalists built one in 1889, when both the Society of Friends and the Plymouth Brethren had meeting-rooms.

The convalescent home, completed in 1872, was situated on the extreme west, not far from the sea.

The brine and swimming baths close to the station were opened in 1890–1, and in 1900 the town laid out a cemetery of 2 acres

(Victoria County History – Yorkshire, A History of the County of York North Riding: Volume 2 Parishes: Marske, 1923).

In 1864, John Farndale wrote:

The other day as I rambled in this enchanted district, viewing the lovely scenery, embracing both sea, land, woodland, pleasure grounds and the beautiful sport on which the new town stands, I was moved to sing –

“And now I mount above the sands,

And in amazement see

The mighty works that’s carried on

At Saltburn by the Sea.”

Timeline of Saltburn’s History

Late Saxon period

The village of Marske, its church and 10½ carucates of land, according to Simeon of Durham, were given to the church of Durham by Copsi Earl of Northumberland. If, however, Durham ever actually had these possessions, they were lost to that church before 1086 (Victoria County History – Yorkshire, A History of the County of York North Riding: Volume 2 Parishes: Marske, 1923).

The earliest evidence of Anglo-Saxons in this area is the cemetery found at Hob Hill. It is one of the most northerly of Anglo-Saxon burial sites in England and contained mixed inhumations and cremations. Lecture at Saltburn 13th March 1911 by the Rev G J Lane, F.G.S. to the Cleveland Naturalists Field Club: The most interesting part of Mr Lane’s lecture was his account of the Anglo Saxon Cemetery discovered at Hob Hill. Anglo-Saxon settlements in the District were still traceable in the names of Brotton, Skelton, Kilton, Upleatham etc and he thought that the cemetery at Hob Hill had been a district cemetery, for the remains of over 100 burial urns had been discovered. These urns were found in long parallel rows about 2 feet below the surface and were invariably broken and in which the ashes of the dead had been placed after cremation. Hundreds of jet, amber and glass beads had been found, as well as human teeth, a fine iron Saxon axe, knives, parts of spears and several fibulae or bronze brooches. One of the latter was the square-headed variety and had been pronounced by the British Museum authorities to be one of the finest that had been found in Britain. At present these interesting antiquities may be seen in the reading room of the New Marske Institute.

1066

The persons recorded in Domesday Book as owning land in Marske were Earl Hugh, who held 2 carucates in the soke of his 'manor' of Loftus, William de Percy, who had 8 carucates before held by Norman, and the Count of Mortain, who had 10 carucates, the soke of which pertained to Brotton (Victoria County History – Yorkshire, A History of the County of York North Riding: Volume 2 Parishes: Marske, 1923).

Thirteenth Century

The hermitage of Saltburn on the banks of 'Holebec' which Roger de Argentein granted to Whitby Abbey in the early part of the 13th century seems to have been in the modern parish of Saltburn.

1407

Redcar (Redker, thirteenth century.; Readkar, Rydcare, fifteen century.; Redcarre, sixteenth century) was called by Graves 'a small dependent manor,' but there is no reference to it as a manor until 1407, and it is doubtful whether it ever had a manorial existence separate from that of Marske, with which it has descended since 1272 (Victoria County History – Yorkshire, A History of the County of York North Riding: Volume 2 Parishes: Marske, 1923).

1745

As a result of the government’s imposition of Customs and Excise duties on drink, tobacco and a variety of other goods, the smuggling trade grew more and more profitable and the running of contraband from coastal inlets to local villages continued for the next 70 years.

1763

A 30 ton sloop went aground at Saltburn after the crew had gone ashore and left a boy on board the anchored vessel. It was carrying contraband including over one thousand gallons of brandy and three hundred gallons of gin. Two men from Skelton, Tommy Tiplady and Bill Richardson, were to help unload it. The Customs and Excise tax on a gallon of brandy was over 5 shillings, which was the equivalent of a weeks wages and some thought the high profits to be made were worth the risk of the heavy penalties if they were caught. Apart from the tax on wine and spirits, a duty was levied on imported tobacco, tea, coffee, linen and even some household items.

1780

John Andrew moved to Saltburn and became landlord of the village's Ship Inn in 1780.

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The Ship Inn

1800

John Farndale later wrote: Some years ago Old Saltburn imported lime, lime stones, and coal, and also exported oak timber, prop wood, corf rods, alum and corn. It had a coal yard and lime kilns, and there was a large alum house near Cat Neb. My grandfather, who was a Kiltonian, employed many men at this alum house, and many a merry tale I have heard him tell of smugglers and their daring adventures and hair breadth escapes. The lime kilns and coal yard were kept by old Mr William Cooper, whose sloop, “The Two Brothers”, was continually employed in the coasting trade. Behind the alum house, Thomas Hutchinson, Esq., late of Brotton House, made an easy carriage road from Saltburn to that place, which road will always be a lasting monument to his memory.

In former days, there were frequently seen lying before Old Saltburn three luggers at a time, all laden with contraband goods, and the song of the crews used to be:- “If we should to the Scottish coast hie, We’ll make Captain Ogleby, the king’s cutter, fly”

The government, however, being determined to put a stop to this nefarious traffic, a party of coast guards, with their cullasses, swords, spy glasses, and dark lanterns, were sent to the Blue House, at Old Saltburn. This came like a thunderbolt upon the astonished Saltburnians. They made, however, two more efforts to continue the trade – one proved successful, the other not.

The last lugger but one bound to Saltburn was chased by the King’s cutter, and running aground at Marske, she was taken by the coast guard, and all the crew were made prisoners, and put into the lock up. While the coast guard were busy enjoying their prize, all the prisoners escaped except one, who was found in Hazlegrip, and whom the King’s officers sadly cut up. Lord Dundas, of Marske Hall, threatened to bring them to justice if the man died.

The last luggar that appeared on the coast was successful in delivering her cargo. Two of the crew, fierce lion-looking fellows, landed, and they succeeded in capturing two of the coast guard, whom they marched to the other wide of Cat Neb, where they stood guard over them till the vessel got delivered. While these jolly smugglers had the two men in custody, they sent to the lugger for a keg of real Geneva, and at the point of the sword they compelled the poor fellows to drink of that which was not the King’s portion. After releasing their prisoners, and then telling them to go home, the smugglers returned to their vessel, setting sail, they left the beach with light hearts and a fair breeze.

Since the merry days alluded to the glory of Old Saltburn has departed – its smuggling days have passed away – its gin vaults have disappeared – and the gay roysterers who were wont to make Cat Neb and the adjacent rocks resound with laughter, now rest in peace beneath the green hillocks in the retired grave yards of Brotton and Skelton.

… Of late years many buildings of Old Saltburn have fallen beneath the ruthless hand of Time, and all that remain now are two or three humble looking cottages, with a respectable inn, possessing good accommodation, the fair hostess being a grand daughter of the well known and worthy huntsman, Mr John Andrews, sen.,, one of the most ardent admirers of the sports of the field in that fox hunting locality. In old Mrs Johnson’s days this inn was noted for furnishing visitors with what were termed “fat rascals” and tea, a delicious kind of cake stuffed with currants, and which the present obliging hostess, Mrs Temple, who is an adept ion the culinary art, can make so as to satisfy the most fastidious palate.

1816

The wrecking of the Esk. The 350 to Whitby Waler, the Esk, was returning home after a whaling expedition north of Shetland, during which four whales had been caught. In 1816 the same ship had survived being trapped in ice on a voyage to Greenland. Her Captain Dunbar passed Hartlepool as a gale started to drive her towards the shore. The morning of 6 September 1826 was marked by strong winds, mist and crashing surf. The Esk’s sails were soon shredded and she became grounded at the low water mark off Marske on Sea. The crew fired guns and burnt a distress light, but at dawn, she went to pieces. Within seventeen hours she was a total wreck and her riggings, timbers and cargo came ashore along miles of coastland. Only three members of the twenty seven strong crew survived. A memorial service was later held at St Mary’s Church, Whitby and 3,000 folk attended and took a collection for the bereaved families.

1822

The threat of Napoleon was receding into history and 7,000 sailors were redeployed as coast guards to fight the smuggling trade. The coastguards’ cottages, still at that time considered part of Skelton (Saltburn was just the few buildings around the Ship Inn) were built to house a section of coastguards.

1856

In 1856, there was a hamlet around the Ship Inn, comprising a row of houses where farmers and fishermen lived. The authors Laurence Sterne and John Hall Stevenson raced chariots on the sands at Saltburn, but otherwise it was but a small fishing hamlet.

1861

The Stockton and Darlington Railway reached Saltburn as an extension of the Middlesbrough to Redcar Railway of 1846.

1862

John Farndale’s 1862 map of the plans for the new Saltburn by the Sea, Yorkshire

1863

The Zetland Hotel was designed by William Peachey. On 2 October 1861 the foundations were laid for the hotel by Lord Zetland. The specification included that white fire bricks had to be used with Westmorland slate on the roof. A glass canopy from the station platform to the rear entrance of the hotel had to be constructed to protect the guests from the elements. The Zetland Hotel was one of the world's earliest purpose-built railway hotels with its own private platform (the first was built in Derby). The hotel was opened, again by Lord Zetland on 27 July 1863.

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1864

John Farndale wrote: On the north west is Old Saltburn which was formerly considered the King of the Smuggling World. Near which is New Saltburn, about to become one of the most fashionable sea bathing places on the eastern coast, thanks to the enterprising gentlemen who conduct the railway operations in this neighbourhood, and who are the public’s benefactors, in a commercial, social point of view, and are indeed, in every sense of the word, the friends of the people.

… when the magnificent position of this place is considered, together with the fact that it is now in the hands of the enterprising gentlemen who have formed to Saltburn Improvement Society, and who have both the capital and the energy to carry out their objects, I can come to no other conclusion, than, as a first rate sea bathing place, it will soon rise into importance and become a favourite resort of the public.

At present the hand of industry is busily engaged at New Saltburn. Hundreds of labourers of various descriptions, are daily employed erecting buildings, cutting new walks, forming rural seats and grottos, and carrying out the plans of the projectors.

The “Zetland Hotel”, to which I previously alluded, being now completed, stands on a lofty aclivity, about one hundred yards from the sea shore, with a broad carriage road in front, and commands on the left a most magnificent view of the broad ocean, the bold rocky headlands of Huntcliff, Roecliff, and Boulby in front, and on the right the picturesque woodland scenery in the ravine or dell on whose lofty banks it is situated, and which extend to the retired village of Skelton, a distance of about two miles. The northern extremity of these banks is now the property of the Saltburn Improvement Society, and here a variety of winding walks have already been formed, where the eye of the visitor may delight to dwell on a wide expanse of ocean, the boldest coast scenery, the innumerable hills and vales, presenting altogether a delightful prospect. The walks here are so arranged to lead to an extensive piece of ground, which the Company have laid out in pleasure gardens; laid out in a style that tend to enhance the enjoyment of the rambler in this terrestrial paradise. The noble wood to the south of these gardens is at present the property of the Earl of Zetland. This wood extends for some miles along the banks of the vale, and it contains numberless trees, the growth of centuries. Running through the middle of it is a pleasant walk, which the Earl of Zetland, with a liberality that does him infinite credit, has granted the visitors at New Saltburn full permission to enjoy. Newly erected, on the opposite side, is Bell’s beautiful hall, Rush Pool.

The terminus of the Stockton and Darlington railway at New Saltburn is at the back of the hotel. Here a splendid station is erected. It is more than 300 feet in length, with extensive waiting rooms, and is a most elegant structure. On each side of the railway a number of streets are projected, with a parade ground, and a spacious terrace, commanding a fine prospect of the German ocean and the adjacent country. Some of these streets to the east of the railway are now erected. About thirty houses, three stories high. Some flagged in front, with spacious shops, having plate glass windows, have already been built, and others are advancing towards completion, so that Saltburn by the Sea already begins to assume the appearance of a town. The houses have an elegant appearance, as they are built of fire bricks from Pearse’s West, and appear to be quite in keeping with the elegance of the new Railway Station and the Hotel.

A writer of an article headed “A Day Out”, and which appeared some time ago in a provincial paper, speaking of Saltburn on the Sea, says, “Although, at present, it is like Paddy’s fortune, ‘an sure all to come yet’, nevertheless the site chosen is one of the most beautiful of Nature’s pictures of marine and inland painting the eye can imagine.”

I think there cannot be a question respecting the judgement displayed in the selection by the promoters, and as little doubt of the success of the enterprise, if they only display equal discretion in embellishing, for unquestionably there stares them in the face this admonishment – Beware of spoiling nature. They must not attempt to do too much; nor interfere with Nature’s arrangements, but simply make good her few, her very few shortcomings. If not, they will surely spoil one of the most lovely spots on earth for human recreation and health – security. Let the doctors talk as they may about their tonics and restoratives, there cannot be a doubt that at this place Nature has thrown her immutable tonic – pure air – broad-cast.

At the foot of the steep aclivity on which New Saltburn stands, runs a small rivulet, called Skelton Beck, and two or three hundred yards further to the south east appears Old Saltburn, described by Mr Ord, in his History of Cleveland, as situated “UPON the sea and UNDER a mountain,” and certainly a more isolated, strange, and desolate looking place to build on cannot be conceived; yet, strange to say, Old Saltburn, in former days, was a thriving fishing and smuggling place. At that time it exported and imported merchandise of all kinds. It then contained two public houses, and many a gin shop where a glass of real unadulterated Geneva could be had for a penny. Here a large and profitable contraband trade was carried on, the principal articles smuggled being Hollands gin, rum, brandy, silks, tea, tobacco &c, and most of the business in this line was carried on between sun set and day break, during which time many a cart load of smuggled goods got clear off and was soon “over the hills and far away”. Every man in the place then had a private vault, where his smuggled goods were stowed away, and there was not then throughout Christendom a happier, a braver, and a merrier set of fellows than the fishermen and lawless smugglers of Old Saltburn.

1865

The parcel of land known as Clifton Villas was sold by the SIC in 1865 to William Morley from London who built the property, 'The Cottage' (now Teddy's Nook) on a site originally intended for 3 villas.

1872

The Primitive Methodists and the Wesleyans both had chapels here in 1872.

The convalescent home, completed in 1872, was situated on the extreme west, not far from the sea.

1884

From the top of the high cliffs an inclined tramway constructed in 1884 led to the sands close to the pier towards the north-east of the town.

'The Pleasure Grounds' extended along the west of the 'Glen,' a bridge over which connected the modern town with the hamlet of Old Saltburn.

1889

The Congregationalists built a chapel in 1889, when both the Society of Friends and the Plymouth Brethren had meeting-rooms.

1890

The brine and swimming baths close to the station were opened in 1890–1.

1900

In 1900 the town laid out a cemetery of 2 acres.

Buildings of Saltburn

Saltburn Pier. Saltburn's attractions include a Grade II renovated pier, the only pleasure pier on the whole of the Northeast and Yorkshire coast.

The Saltburn Cliff Lift is one of the world's oldest water-powered funiculars. After the opening of Saltburn Pier in 1869, it was concluded that the steep cliff walk was deterring people from walking from the town to the pier. After the company was taken over by Middlesbrough Estates in 1883, they discovered that the wooden Cliff Hoist had a number of rotten supports. The Saltburn tramway, as it is also known, was developed by Sir Richard Tangye's company, whose chief engineer was George Croydon Marks. The cliff tramway opened a year later and provided transport between the pier and the town. The railway is water-balanced and since 1924 the water pump has been electrically operated. The first major maintenance was carried out in 1998, when the main winding wheel was replaced and a new braking system installed.

People of Saltburn

Joseph Pease

Joseph Pease was a Quaker, born on 22 June 1799 into a wealthy family. He initially worked in the wool factories at Darlington owned by his father, Edward Pease who also partnered George Stephenson in his engine factory at Walker, Newcastle, and was a board member of the Stockton & Darlington Railway where he became known as the ‘Father of the Railways’.

Joseph became treasurer of the Stockton & Darlington Railway at the age of 25. With the railway in need of expansion and a more convenient port necessary to export the harvest of the Durham coalfields, the company sought a site for a terminus on the lower Tees. Further up, the river was treacherous and almost unnavigable, only small craft of shallow draught capable of reaching Stockton and Yarm. The new port was to be called Port Darlington. In the face of heavy opposition from Stockton and Yarm industrialists, who knew a new port lower down the river would steal much of their business, it was Joseph Pease who became prime mover in lobbying parliament to grant the necessary Act for the Middlesbrough Railway Extension.

With his five sons and his brother Henry, he formed a company called Pease & Partners. By 1840 when Middlesbrough showed signs of stagnating, it was clearly in his interest as one of The Owners and as a director of Pease & Partners to attract alternative industry. The move he made was to offer Henry Bolckow and John Vaughan land on easy terms and give them letters of introduction when they started their iron business.

Joseph was elected to Parliament in 1832, representing South Durham, and became the first Quaker to sit in the Commons. He campaigned against corruption and slavery while fervently supporting human rights and religious freedom. He proposed and carried a clause in the Metropolitan Police Bill prohibiting the common pastimes of bull and bear baiting, and also sat on many committees dealing with industry. Re-elected in 1835 and 1837 he eventually resigned from parliament in 1841 because of heavy business commitments.

As the railways pushed east beyond Redcar, Pease & Partners expanded into ironstone mining. In 1853 they opened the Hutton Lowcross mine near Guisborough. Soon, they owned Upleatham, Skinningrove and Hob Hill (Saltburn) mines, between them annually producing almost a million tonnes of ore. By 1875, eight and a half million tonnes of ironstone, limestone, coal and coke were being transported, most of which was used in Teesside’s iron industry.

Joseph Pease was fond of the Cleveland coast. Shortly after retiring from parliament, in 1844 he bought several fishermen’s cottages on the seafront at Marske, demolished them then used the site to build Cliff House where his family spent their summers.

It was from there one afternoon in 1859 his brother Henry took a stroll over the sandbanks to discover the old village of Saltburn. Returning breathless, he stated his intention to build a new town on top of the cliff. With some help from brother Joseph and the Stockton & Darlington Railway, he succeeded, naming it Saltburn by the Sea.

Erasmus Darwin IV was the grandson of the naturalist Charles Darwin. He lived in Albion Terrace (1911 census). He served in the First World War and was killed in 1915. He is commemorated on the town's war memorial.

Sir Malcolm Campbell set his first speed record (138.08 mph-unofficial) while driving Blue Bird on Saltburn Sands on 17 June 1922.

David Coverdale, Deep Purple and Whitesnake lead vocalist, grew up in the Red Lodge on Marine Parade.

Nicholas Patrick, later an American astronaut was born in Saltburn.

John Farndale’s Guide to Saltburn by the Sea

John Farndale was interested in the idea of Saltburn by the Sea, as it was being designed and executed by the Pease family. He started to write his Guidebook, A Guide to Saltburn by the Sea and the Surrounding District. The work does describe the evolution of Saltburn by the Sea in some detail, but he was more interested in the rural landscape inland from Saltburn, and particularly his beloved Kilton.

The First Edition was published in 1861, as the railway arrived in the new town. The Second Edition was published in 1863. The Work must have been popular, because by 1864, it was in its fifth edition, which is reproduced here.

John Farndale’s poem, Saltburn by the Sea:

When I attained the age of man,

I took a trip to see

Those fine hard well known golden sands

At Saltburn by the Sea

I passed the place where Esk was wrecked,

A sight most sad to me,

When Dunbar and his men lay dead,

Near Saltburn by the Sea

The sea was rough, and mountains high,

No storm could greater be,

Near all on board that ship were lost

At Saltburn by the Sea

To view the sands then strewed with wreck,

Was a sight most sad to see,

That noble ship, the Esk, broke up

Near Saltburn by the Sea

So resolute the night before,

The Captain said he’d be

In Whitby, or far off next day,

Not Saltburn by the Sea

Such sights I wish to see no more,

O may they never be;

Such loss of life and ship by storm

Near Saltburn by the Sea.

And now I mount above the sands,

And in amazement see

The mighty works now carried on

At Saltburn by the Sea

I gazed delighted on the scene,

And found it soon moved me,

To write a book, a little book,

On Saltburn by the Sea.

This little book, this book of mine,

I wish you all to see;

O mind you have this little book

On Saltburn by the Sea.

This little book, this book of mine,

Will tell where you should be,

To view the lovely scenes around

New Saltburn by the Sea.

Then when my race on earth is run,

O may they gather me,

Unto my father’s father’s tomb,

Near Saltburn by the Sea.

Texts and Books

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https://www.chrisscottwilson.co.uk/local-history-books/4544927233